Determined to cram a lot into a day, we headed off for the Pjórárdalur Valley and area surrounding Hekla. This area has seen numerous eruptions of Hekla and the scenery reflects that. The ride up Route 32 and down Route 26 was rough but manageable. Much of the area has little to no life. The stark landscapes are filled with huge volcanic rocks that obviously came flying down from the sky. Huge lava fields extended for miles in every direction. It looked as if we were on another planet and at any moment one of the volcanoes could erupt once again. While in the area, we visited the ruins at Stöng. I made the mistake of drinking what I thought was nice clean glacial water only to discover a sign later warning of high fluorine content. Sounds like nasty stuff but I appear unaffected. On the way back to the Ring Route we could see Hekla to the East although seeing it completely was a challenge through the cloud cover. On this 2 hour journey, I think we saw 2 other cars.
Once back at the Ring Route we headed West towards Hveragerði. The visit to the geothermal area was a complete waste of time. The area is surrounded by a chain link fence and is accessed through a restaurant / information center. A couple of mud pots and steam vents hardly make for interesting viewing. We spent about 15 minutes and left. However, the diversion was not a waste as the lava tube near Raufarhhólshellir did not disappoint. Its 1km long and goes right under Route 39 near the intersection with Route 42. Although the signs clearly warned of danger and the rocks on the roof looked like they could fall at any minute, we climbed inside with only a headlamp and a pocket light. A more safety conscience person might want at least a helmet. We figured if we died here at least it would be a unique way to die. Climbing down and inside was chore but no too difficult. You have to navigate lots of huge rocks being careful with each step. The only light provided is from the entrance and a couple of holes in the ceiling opened by collapses. We spent about 45 minutes inside and only got about half way through before turning around and heading out. Get in far enough and it is pitch black.
Now it was time to head back to Route 1 and start our journey counter-clockwise. We stopped next at Seljalandsfoss and Gljúrárfoss (waterfalls). The first is beautiful high falls you can walk behind. The second requires some light climbing up a hill and past a fence to see. 
Next up was another falls, Skógafoss. A nice wide falls that drops over 60m. We took the stairs up (a fairly steep 15 minute climb) to get a vantage point from above. It was quickly becoming apparent that waterfalls are everywhere in this country.Already 5:00PM we aren't at our destination yet and still want good glimpse our first glacier. We decide to take a detour on Route 221 towards Myrdalsajökull (glacier). This is a very rough road and is a lot longer journey than it looks. Starting to worry about damage to our rental car and the clock, we turn around after about 20 minutes but not before catching a glimpse of the glacier only a short distance away.
Back on the Ring Route again we decide to check into the Hótel Hófðabrekka just past Vík. Another nice but simple farm house. With little else to do, we decide to check out the black sand beach at Vík. Other than the pretty black sand, we aren't overly impressed. Much of the sunlight is blocked by the Reynísfjall ridge so pictures don't even look good. Then, it dawns on us that the lighting is probably perfect on the other side of the cliff so we hop in our car and head back West a bit to Route 218. Avoiding a small herd of cattle, we make our way to the black stone beach and the unbelievable stack of basalt columns. We get some great pictures of these columns, even managing to climb them a bit. Just around the corner from the columns we found a nice view of the sea stacks of Renisdrangur.
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