SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 2nd - Journey Back Home
Everything went very smoothly on the return to the U.S. We spent the last of our Icelandic money in the airport and our plane left on time and arrived on time in Boston. Since we both had allowed extra time in Boston in case things didn't go smoothly, when they did we tried to get earlier flights home. We both managed to get them although Delta charge me $50 to change my flight to Atlanta. My brother and I exchanged quick goodbyes in Boston and went our separate ways. The flight to Atlanta was also very smooth with a minor hiccup when my luggage didn't show up on the carousel. Just as I was reporting it missing, my lone bag popped up to my delight. I got to my car, dropped the top and I drove the last miles to my home. The first thing that hit me was how hot and humid it was.
SUMMARY
Overall the trip was a smashing success and I'd highly recommend Iceland to anyone who has the time and money to make the journey. Although I think one could enjoy a long weekend in the Iceland, a week or more is really necessary to see most of what it has to offer. My favorite parts were the pub crawl in Reykjavík, the lava tube at Raufarhhólshellir, the drive along the Southern coast and Skatafell National Park. About the only place I didn't enjoy was Hvergerði. If I went back, I'd want to see either the Western Fjörds, Snæfellsnes Penisula or more of the interior. The Þórsmörk to Landmannalaugar hike is something I'd love to do at some point. I could also spend more time around Lake Myvatn.
If anyone has any questions or want some pointers on planning a trip to Iceland, please don't hesitate to ask.
Monday, October 1, 2007
Iceland Trip Report - Part 11 of 12
SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 1st - Back to the Big City
We briefly discussed making diversions to the Western Fjörds, Snæfellsnes Penisula or the interior but realized we simply wouldn't have enough time to do any of those diversions justice. Instead, we made a beeline back to Reykjavík sticking to Route 1. The journey along the western end of Route didn't feature any major landmarks or stops but the drive was quite pleasant and once again different than most of the rest of the country. Most of it follows a large river valley with fairly large mountains along both sides of the valley. Unlike most of Iceland, there was a lot of green in this area. The area featured literally hundreds of small waterfalls but nothing spectacular enough to make us stop. The only major choice we had left was whether to take the tunnel near Akranes or drive the extra distance around the fjörd. Our final decision was based on price. Since it was less than 1000 ISK ($16) we decided to take the shorter route.
Back in Reykjavík we found ourselves some parking close to our hotel, the Radisson SAS 1919. This was much easier than we anticipated. Fortunately, we were there early enough to grab a space before the evening crowd rolled in. This time we got an even nicer room on the corner of the hotel. The view from the corner was really neat because it was right on a fairly busy intersection and we could people watch for the hours leading up to the pub crawl. After dealing with relatively simple farm house accommodations, it was really nice to be in a big city hotel. The bathroom, showers and beds felt huge and having a couple more TV channels to flip through while we relaxed was certainly welcome.
The next step was to go out and gather up some souvenirs. This is really easy to do in downtown Reykjavík as there are numerous gift shops and book shops. Because it was some special Saturday shopping day, the streets were pretty full of shoppers but not so full as to be a hindrance. The weather was cold and wet but after circling the countryside it really didn't phase us. I picked up a book for myself, a sweatshirt and socks for my daughter and a couple things for friends before calling it quits. After some more rest at the hotel we set off in search of dinner. We walked around for almost an hour trying to find the perfect place.We kind of hoped to find some uniquely Icelandic food. Something like whale, smoked puffin or reindeer would have been nice. However, we didn't want to overspend on it and settled for good fish and chips. Afterwards we had some coffee and cake to kill some time before a mini-pub crawl.
Since out flight was early the next morning, we considered staying awake all night. However, it became apparent we were pretty run down from the trip and some sleep was going to be necessary. We waited until the crowd began to come out around 11:30 and hit a local bar. We had a few drinks, called it night and I quickly few asleep in the very comfortable bed.
We briefly discussed making diversions to the Western Fjörds, Snæfellsnes Penisula or the interior but realized we simply wouldn't have enough time to do any of those diversions justice. Instead, we made a beeline back to Reykjavík sticking to Route 1. The journey along the western end of Route didn't feature any major landmarks or stops but the drive was quite pleasant and once again different than most of the rest of the country. Most of it follows a large river valley with fairly large mountains along both sides of the valley. Unlike most of Iceland, there was a lot of green in this area. The area featured literally hundreds of small waterfalls but nothing spectacular enough to make us stop. The only major choice we had left was whether to take the tunnel near Akranes or drive the extra distance around the fjörd. Our final decision was based on price. Since it was less than 1000 ISK ($16) we decided to take the shorter route.
Back in Reykjavík we found ourselves some parking close to our hotel, the Radisson SAS 1919. This was much easier than we anticipated. Fortunately, we were there early enough to grab a space before the evening crowd rolled in. This time we got an even nicer room on the corner of the hotel. The view from the corner was really neat because it was right on a fairly busy intersection and we could people watch for the hours leading up to the pub crawl. After dealing with relatively simple farm house accommodations, it was really nice to be in a big city hotel. The bathroom, showers and beds felt huge and having a couple more TV channels to flip through while we relaxed was certainly welcome.
The next step was to go out and gather up some souvenirs. This is really easy to do in downtown Reykjavík as there are numerous gift shops and book shops. Because it was some special Saturday shopping day, the streets were pretty full of shoppers but not so full as to be a hindrance. The weather was cold and wet but after circling the countryside it really didn't phase us. I picked up a book for myself, a sweatshirt and socks for my daughter and a couple things for friends before calling it quits. After some more rest at the hotel we set off in search of dinner. We walked around for almost an hour trying to find the perfect place.We kind of hoped to find some uniquely Icelandic food. Something like whale, smoked puffin or reindeer would have been nice. However, we didn't want to overspend on it and settled for good fish and chips. Afterwards we had some coffee and cake to kill some time before a mini-pub crawl.
Since out flight was early the next morning, we considered staying awake all night. However, it became apparent we were pretty run down from the trip and some sleep was going to be necessary. We waited until the crowd began to come out around 11:30 and hit a local bar. We had a few drinks, called it night and I quickly few asleep in the very comfortable bed.
Iceland Trip Report - Part 10 of 12
FRIDAY AUGUST 31st - Lake Myvatn
For some odd reason, the Farm Holiday's tour recommendations completely skipped the Lake Myvatn area when putting together our Ring Route trip. However, after reading about it I knew it was foolish to overlook this area if you are anywhere near it. Because we had to get pretty far West by the end of the day, we had to make the journey relatively short. We headed back East toward the area and decided to take Route 848 up the West side. Originally thinking this might be a gravel road slowing our trip, we were pleasantly surprised to see it paved. We didn't really stop anywhere along the western lake shore instead waiting to stop until we found a nice tourism office on the Northern end of the lake. After some great pointers, we headed towards the Hverarönd geothermal field. This field was quite big and had some nice steaming vents, mud pots, sulfur deposits and fumaroles. The sulfur smell was quite strong and the area made me think of walking in a cat litter box as our shoes were caked with sulfur filled mud upon exit.
After cleaning our shoes the best we could we headed for the Reykjahlið swilling pool to take a look. We didn't have time for a swim but I wanted to see if it was really as nice as the Blue Lagoon as I had read. While the actual pool may have been as nice the building certainly wasn't as impressive. It is a much plainer facility. However, since it costs a lot less to enter, I can understand why some people chose to go there instead of or in addition to the Blue Lagoon.
Next up was the Viti explosion crater. A short drive through a geothermal plant left us at the bottom of a short trail leading to the top of the crater. Less than a 20 minute walk put us up on the rim staring down into this blue water filled crater. No really a spectacular sight but pretty unique.
A couple minutes later and we were headed back down and back towards the lake. Neither of us are bird watchers but considering how much I'd heard about Lake Myvatn being this huge bird-watchers paradise, I expected to see more birds. Maybe the birds were already gone for the season or maybe there went enough black flies and midges (there were more than enough to pester me). Whatever it was there simply weren't many birds. On the East side of the lake I stopped briefly to marvel at Hverfell tephra ring.
Later, we stopped to admire the cool lava field and rock formations at Dimmuborgir and Markhraun. We finally finished up our lake area exploration by wandering around some pseudo craters on the South end of the lake. We had spent about 3 1/2 hours exploring the lake. We easily could have spent more but I was very satisfied with what we were able to see.
Leaving the lake and heading back West once again we stopped for another set of waterfalls at Godafoss. These large falls were quite impressive and you could walk right up to the edge of them. It took a little carefully maneuvering and one wet shoe but I managed to get myself positioned within inches of huge water drop. This would be the last significant falls we'd see in Iceland although we see literally hundreds of more small falls during the rest of our drive.
We breezed through Akureyri this time around and only briefly considered a rafting trip in the Varmahlið area before continuing on a long winding drive to our next and last farm house at Stðarskáli in Hrútafjöordur. The host greeted us nicely but told us she was thrilled that this was her last weekend dealing with the Ring Routers. Apparently her season was over and not a moment too soon. We opted for the dinner this time paying close to $65 for a simple dinner consisting of some sauce covered fish, rice, bread and a very small serving of vegetables. We were surprised to see that even in Iceland, Dr. Phil made his presence on TV.
Iceland Trip Report - Part 9 of 12
THURSDAY AUGUST 30th - Jökulsárgljúfur National Park
Another full day had us heading towards Jókulsárgljúfur National Park. Back on Route 1 we found a nice pullover in the long stretch between Egilsstaðir and Route 864 where the black winding road looked really nice against the mostly black surrounding landscape. It was apparent many others had also enjoyed this lookout as the parking area had a collection of at least 50 cairns. Cairns are rock piles you see throughout Iceland, some in the strangest spots. Apparently they used to be used a signposts for locations and routes. Now, locals and tourists alike create piles of rocks all over the stark land. Some of them are very short and disorganized. Others are tall and very structured. Although we often went for 10 to 20 minutes without seeing a car, we rarely travelled for more than a minute without see a cairn. We often wondered how long some of the cairns had stood.
Another full day had us heading towards Jókulsárgljúfur National Park. Back on Route 1 we found a nice pullover in the long stretch between Egilsstaðir and Route 864 where the black winding road looked really nice against the mostly black surrounding landscape. It was apparent many others had also enjoyed this lookout as the parking area had a collection of at least 50 cairns. Cairns are rock piles you see throughout Iceland, some in the strangest spots. Apparently they used to be used a signposts for locations and routes. Now, locals and tourists alike create piles of rocks all over the stark land. Some of them are very short and disorganized. Others are tall and very structured. Although we often went for 10 to 20 minutes without seeing a car, we rarely travelled for more than a minute without see a cairn. We often wondered how long some of the cairns had stood.
When we got to Route 864, we turned North towards the park and started a rather fun drive up to our first stop. At this point I had become quick comfortable with driving on loose gravel roads and really started enjoying it. There's just something about the feel of the gravel hitting the car and swerving to avoid the biggest ruts that made the adventure that much funner. After a good 30 minutes driving in the stuff we reached our first stop near Dettifoss (falls). More volume of water falls over Dettifoss than any falls in Europe but because it is relatively short and the water is filled with sediment, it isn't Iceland's prettiest. However, I was still pretty impressed.
From Dettifoss we did some short walking and a short drive to see a few more falls, Selfoss and Hafrailsfoss. The canyons surrounding the falls are also pretty dramatic.
After leaving the falls we drove to the northern end of the park to see Asbyrgi. This area of the park is filled with numerous trails so we decided to follow one that did a small circle around the canyon. This canyon is sometimes billed as Iceland's Grand Canyon" but from this person who has seen THE Grand Canyon in Arizona on multiple occasions, Asbyrgi isn't even close. Although a nice departure from most Icelandic landscapes as it has a good amount of green, the walls of the canyon a relatively featureless. It is certainly worth a trip if you are in the area but if you skip it I don't think you'd regret it.
From Asbyrygi we headed out on Route 85 towards the North coast and Husavík. The drive was nice but fairly featureless. This would be northernmost part of our journey but would leave us about 40km short of the Arctic Circle. We briefly considered a flight to Grimsey so we could step inside the Arctic Circle but reconsidered when we found out the flights were limited and there really isn't a good marker for the spot. Instead I gazed into the distance and held off the journey to the Arctic for a future trip to Norway? Husavík was a decent size town by Icelandic standards but we really didn't spend too much time checking it out. We only stopped for a short lunch at restaurant attached to local gas station. From the window of the gas station we could see the somewhat famous Icelandic Phallogical Museum but never considered entering it.
Next up was an early check in at our hotel, Narfastaðir in Reykjadalur. Another typical farmhouse in a nice location between Husavík, Akureyri and Lake Myvatn. After checking in and relaxing a bit we headed out for Akureyri. Since we were going to be heading back eastward to check out the Lake Myvatn area we thought it best to check out Akureyri today rather than try to fit it in the next day. The drive in to Akureyri was quite nice and the town was the most developed since Reykjavík. We set about exploring the city on foot and found it fairly accessible. We didn't do much significant other than check out a church and catch part of girls soccer game. We didn't realize how significant this game was until we caught highlights on TV later that night and on future nights of trip. Perhaps we should have stuck around a little longer. Having had our fill of Akureyri we headed back East to the hotel.
Iceland Trip Report - Part 8 of 12
WEDNESDAY AUGUST 29th - Glacier Up Close
Once back at the shack, we removed our gear. Although we would have loved to head back to the car immediately, they make you wait so the guests can enjoy lunch at their restaurant. I think the set meal was around 2400ISK ($40) so we decided to pass. After about 45 minutes we gathered up for the ride down. If the ride up was hairy, the ride down was more so. I kept expecting them to fish tale around a turn or two and have the wheels slide off the cliff. I couldn't help but wonder how much effort went in to building this road that served no other purpose that to get people to the snowmobiles. Once at the bottom we jump in the car and headed out. It was now 1:30. The whole thing had taken about 4 hours. I liked the experience but doubt I would ever repeat it. 
Ahead of us we had a fairly long drive to Eqilsstaðir. As the crow flies, it wasn't that far away, but we were following the coast. At this point the coast turns into a long series of fjords. These fjords take forever to navigate as each long trip inward is followed by an equally long trip outward. At times we we wishing for a nice bridge or tunnel shortcut. However, I've got to admit there was something tranquil about these fjords and their nice high rounded peaks. We saw so few cars on this journey it made me feel as if the track was specially laid out for us. When we got a little hungry we even managed to find a nice restaurant along the edge of one of these fjords that looked newly erected, perhaps just hours before our arrival. We felt a little awkward ordering only chocolate milkshakes to go but we needed to survive and keep going on the open road.
I decided before the trip that one of the things I really wanted to do was drive a snowmobile on a glacier. I figured this journey could serve three purposes. First, it would get me on a glacier. Second, the ride up to the glacier was via an F Road (4WD) in a super jeep. Finally, I'd get to drive a snowmobile which I hadn't done in almost 25 years. We decided to go with Glacier Jeeps. They offer pickup at a lot right on the Ring Road & F985. For 9900ISK ($158), they drive you up to the glacier, outfit you with a snowsuit, helmet, gloves and boots. That price is per person with 2 people sharing a snowmobile. To ride alone it costs an extra 5000ISK ($80). Reservations were not required but we very surprised how many people showed up at the bottom lot (about 25). For all the money these people make of tourists, I would have expected the guides to speak better English. Instead, they were the worst English speakers we met in the country. However, their English was certainly better than my Icelandic so I couldn't complain.
The ride up to the top was pretty crazy. The drivers are obviously used to it and they drove quite fast. It was a pretty steep road of loose gravel and switchback turns. It didn't make me very nervous but you could tell several of our fellow passengers we not so comfortable. After 20 minutes we reached the small building high up above the coast. It took awhile to process payments from everyone and get everyone equipped for the journey. In the mean time, I enjoyed the great view from up top. When everyone was finally set, we walked down to the snowmobiles. Now it was time for instructions. This was a bit of challenge with the fractured English but he got most of his message across with some visual aids. We all hopped on our snowmobiles and began our trip in single file. From here it became painfully apparent who had no experience or intuition about how to drive a snowmobile. Several people tip their sleds in the first turn and one couple went complete off the path and into some rocks. However, most people adjusted as the trip went by. My brother allowed me to drive and I handled things quite well. Only one time were we close to tipping over. My biggest gripe was the idiot in front of us who clearly had little skill yet insisted on thinking he did. He'd frequently hold back to create a gap so he could speed ahead. I was just waiting for him to fly off his ride since he nearly did several times. The conditions were far from ideal. The path we took was fairly well worn and we spent a majority of our time in slush, ice, water or rocks, very little on packed snow. I guess you can't expect much better in late August. When we finally hit a nice patch, the guide told us to stop for pictures before we started heading back. The whole time on the snowmobiles was probably 50 minutes tops.
Once back at the shack, we removed our gear. Although we would have loved to head back to the car immediately, they make you wait so the guests can enjoy lunch at their restaurant. I think the set meal was around 2400ISK ($40) so we decided to pass. After about 45 minutes we gathered up for the ride down. If the ride up was hairy, the ride down was more so. I kept expecting them to fish tale around a turn or two and have the wheels slide off the cliff. I couldn't help but wonder how much effort went in to building this road that served no other purpose that to get people to the snowmobiles. Once at the bottom we jump in the car and headed out. It was now 1:30. The whole thing had taken about 4 hours. I liked the experience but doubt I would ever repeat it. Ahead of us we had a fairly long drive to Eqilsstaðir. As the crow flies, it wasn't that far away, but we were following the coast. At this point the coast turns into a long series of fjords. These fjords take forever to navigate as each long trip inward is followed by an equally long trip outward. At times we we wishing for a nice bridge or tunnel shortcut. However, I've got to admit there was something tranquil about these fjords and their nice high rounded peaks. We saw so few cars on this journey it made me feel as if the track was specially laid out for us. When we got a little hungry we even managed to find a nice restaurant along the edge of one of these fjords that looked newly erected, perhaps just hours before our arrival. We felt a little awkward ordering only chocolate milkshakes to go but we needed to survive and keep going on the open road.We made a brief stop at the start of Reyðarfjórður to get a picture of the both of us in front of the lighthouse at Vattarnes. Dad and Joanie love lighthouses and frequent a restaurant that features photos of many of them. This was our best chance to give them a nice gift. The walk to the lighthouse was more than bit challenging as it was across a nice stretch of moss covered lava field. When we got out there we realized just how small the lighthouse was, coming in no taller than 25 feet. It almost looked like a kid's playhouse. When leaving we got a little scare as a street sweeper started approaching the car. For a few moments we thought we'd come back to the car all pitted from rocks. Fortunately, it turned around just before the car but not before forcing us to run across the rough field. We jumped in the car and continued to Eqilsstaðir.
Egilsstaðir was easily the biggest city we'd seen since Reykjavík. Much of it has been built in the past few years to support the big dam project located no too far south of the town. After we checked in to Guesthouse Egilsstaðir we decided we still had some extra free time. Prior research had revealed that the drive to Seyðisfjördur was short and interesting enough to check out. When we realized that Wednesday was the day the ships arrived from Norway and there were extra activities in the town, we decided we'd drive down there, check out the city and get some dinner. The drive didn't disappoint. The hills down into the fjord were very nice and towering over the city made for a great photo. However, once we got to the city, it was almost dead. Little to no activity was going on and we couldn't find a single place to eat after criss-crossing the entire town. We headed back to Egilsstaðir a little disappointed and hungry. Choosing to avoid the pricey ($64) and romantic setting of the hotel meal, we opted for the diner connected to the gas station across the street. This diner was typical of many we'd find. We got a decent pizza at a "reasonable" price. Leftovers would come in handy the next day.
The hotel was actually quite nice although the outside looked relatively simple. The view was especially good looking out on the lake, Lögurrin. I'd heard of the sea monster that supposedly lives in the lake but never saw it. However, there were some nice horses out back the lighting was just perfect for some excellent photos.
Iceland Trip Report - Part 7 of 12
TUESDAY AUGUST 28th - "Blow Your Mind" Drive
The first thing we came across on the drive was the Great Sandur. When volcanoes go off under the glacier, they melt the ice and when this water comes pouring down towards the ocean, huge amounts of sediment are carried with it. For miles and miles of this drive the coastline and a few miles inland were covered with this black sand sediment. The sand, the road, the ocean and the glacier make for a very dramatic picture.
From there, we continued up the trail another 20 minutes to the edge of Skaftafellsjökull (glacier). Although, from this point, you can't actually touch the glacier, you do get a great view of it and can better grasp the huge size. We didn't want to take the same path back down we took up, so ignored the "closed" sign of another path and took our chances. Yes, yes, I know this isn't the brightest thing but we weren't looking to "follow the rules". Unfortunately for us, about half way down we ran into the crew working on this path. The were a bit irate the we'd ignored there signs but we just kept on walking. About 15 minutes later we were back at the car and alive. Time to hit the road before the "man" came after us. We'd spent a total of about 2 hours in the park.
Around 2:30 we reach the Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon. This lagoon can't be missed from Route 1. The road passes right over the lagoon with the best views from the East side of the bridge. There is an amphibious boat ride for 2500ISK ($40) where they cram about 30 people into a small space with life vests. After watching the relatively short trip this vehicle takes (about 30 minutes), we realized we could see just as much walking around the lagoon and opted to save the cash (a rare opportunity in Iceland). We spent a good 45 minutes checking out the lagoon and were treated to a nice ice breakage that set off a nice chain reaction of collisions in the lagoon. This place is, without a doubt, is one of the biggest tourist traps in Iceland and was probably the most crowded area we encountered in our entire journey. Someone is making big bucks off this lagoon.
The Farm Holidays information describe this day's drive as "mind-blowing" and it wasn't far from the truth. However, before we hit the road I needed to take a shower. Now you may ask yourself why would I bring this up? I bring it to your attention because it was the most disgusting shower of my life. From the moment I turned the hot water on, I was surrounded by a very strong sulfur smell (rotten eggs). This smell grew stronger and stronger the longer I was in the shower so as you might expect I made it fast but not before almost gagging. Fortunately, when it was done, and I had left the bathroom, the smell didn't linger on my body. Of course, maybe my brother thought different. Either way we got the hell out of Dodge.
The first thing we came across on the drive was the Great Sandur. When volcanoes go off under the glacier, they melt the ice and when this water comes pouring down towards the ocean, huge amounts of sediment are carried with it. For miles and miles of this drive the coastline and a few miles inland were covered with this black sand sediment. The sand, the road, the ocean and the glacier make for a very dramatic picture. 
Up next was a stop at Skatafell National Park. The park is just of the Ring Route and has several hiking trails, many of which lead up to the glacier. First we took the short hike up to Svartifoss (waterfall). This waterfall is a pretty impressive sight as it is surrounded by basalt columns. Feeling adventurous, my brother decided to walk behind the falls as I stayed back at took pictures of him. From his description the walk behind was relatively easy and he only got a little misted.
From there, we continued up the trail another 20 minutes to the edge of Skaftafellsjökull (glacier). Although, from this point, you can't actually touch the glacier, you do get a great view of it and can better grasp the huge size. We didn't want to take the same path back down we took up, so ignored the "closed" sign of another path and took our chances. Yes, yes, I know this isn't the brightest thing but we weren't looking to "follow the rules". Unfortunately for us, about half way down we ran into the crew working on this path. The were a bit irate the we'd ignored there signs but we just kept on walking. About 15 minutes later we were back at the car and alive. Time to hit the road before the "man" came after us. We'd spent a total of about 2 hours in the park.
Around 2:30 we reach the Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon. This lagoon can't be missed from Route 1. The road passes right over the lagoon with the best views from the East side of the bridge. There is an amphibious boat ride for 2500ISK ($40) where they cram about 30 people into a small space with life vests. After watching the relatively short trip this vehicle takes (about 30 minutes), we realized we could see just as much walking around the lagoon and opted to save the cash (a rare opportunity in Iceland). We spent a good 45 minutes checking out the lagoon and were treated to a nice ice breakage that set off a nice chain reaction of collisions in the lagoon. This place is, without a doubt, is one of the biggest tourist traps in Iceland and was probably the most crowded area we encountered in our entire journey. Someone is making big bucks off this lagoon. 
We got to the Smrylabjörg farm house around 4:00 wanted to take it easy a bit. Monday's long day and hike had taken a lot out of us and we weren't even halfway done with our trip. We decided to pass on the 3500ISK dinner ($56) and eat peanut butter sandwiches instead. Most of the hotels offered a common area and we generally made good us of it, spending a couple hours watching some TV and downing some drinks. Unfortunately, few other guests made us of these areas so meeting people was infrequent. We did meet a nice group of 4 from the Czech Republic that were following the Ring Route as well and we shared some experiences. TV at the farm houses was at best hit or miss with between 1 and 5 channels. 5 channels might sound like a good amount but when 2 of the channels are showing the same show, a third is showing a still frame picture of what looked like paella and a fourth has greatest hits from some British talk show that makes little sense, this American TV junkie is at a loss. Thank goodness we had some alcohol.
Iceland Trip Report - Part 6 of 12
MONDAY AUGUST 27th - Volcanos, Lava and Our First Glacier
Determined to cram a lot into a day, we headed off for the Pjórárdalur Valley and area surrounding Hekla. This area has seen numerous eruptions of Hekla and the scenery reflects that. The ride up Route 32 and down Route 26 was rough but manageable. Much of the area has little to no life. The stark landscapes are filled with huge volcanic rocks that obviously came flying down from the sky. Huge lava fields extended for miles in every direction. It looked as if we were on another planet and at any moment one of the volcanoes could erupt once again. While in the area, we visited the ruins at Stöng. I made the mistake of drinking what I thought was nice clean glacial water only to discover a sign later warning of high fluorine content. Sounds like nasty stuff but I appear unaffected. On the way back to the Ring Route we could see Hekla to the East although seeing it completely was a challenge through the cloud cover. On this 2 hour journey, I think we saw 2 other cars.
Once back at the Ring Route we headed West towards Hveragerði. The visit to the geothermal area was a complete waste of time. The area is surrounded by a chain link fence and is accessed through a restaurant / information center. A couple of mud pots and steam vents hardly make for interesting viewing. We spent about 15 minutes and left. However, the diversion was not a waste as the lava tube near Raufarhhólshellir did not disappoint. Its 1km long and goes right under Route 39 near the intersection with Route 42. Although the signs clearly warned of danger and the rocks on the roof looked like they could fall at any minute, we climbed inside with only a headlamp and a pocket light. A more safety conscience person might want at least a helmet. We figured if we died here at least it would be a unique way to die. Climbing down and inside was chore but no too difficult. You have to navigate lots of huge rocks being careful with each step. The only light provided is from the entrance and a couple of holes in the ceiling opened by collapses. We spent about 45 minutes inside and only got about half way through before turning around and heading out. Get in far enough and it is pitch black.
Now it was time to head back to Route 1 and start our journey counter-clockwise. We stopped next at Seljalandsfoss and Gljúrárfoss (waterfalls). The first is beautiful high falls you can walk behind. The second requires some light climbing up a hill and past a fence to see.
Next up was another falls, Skógafoss. A nice wide falls that drops over 60m. We took the stairs up (a fairly steep 15 minute climb) to get a vantage point from above. It was quickly becoming apparent that waterfalls are everywhere in this country.
Already 5:00PM we aren't at our destination yet and still want good glimpse our first glacier. We decide to take a detour on Route 221 towards Myrdalsajökull (glacier). This is a very rough road and is a lot longer journey than it looks. Starting to worry about damage to our rental car and the clock, we turn around after about 20 minutes but not before catching a glimpse of the glacier only a short distance away.
Back on the Ring Route again we decide to check into the Hótel Hófðabrekka just past Vík. Another nice but simple farm house. With little else to do, we decide to check out the black sand beach at Vík. Other than the pretty black sand, we aren't overly impressed. Much of the sunlight is blocked by the Reynísfjall ridge so pictures don't even look good. Then, it dawns on us that the lighting is probably perfect on the other side of the cliff so we hop in our car and head back West a bit to Route 218. Avoiding a small herd of cattle, we make our way to the black stone beach and the unbelievable stack of basalt columns. We get some great pictures of these columns, even managing to climb them a bit. Just around the corner from the columns we found a nice view of the sea stacks of Renisdrangur.
Determined to cram a lot into a day, we headed off for the Pjórárdalur Valley and area surrounding Hekla. This area has seen numerous eruptions of Hekla and the scenery reflects that. The ride up Route 32 and down Route 26 was rough but manageable. Much of the area has little to no life. The stark landscapes are filled with huge volcanic rocks that obviously came flying down from the sky. Huge lava fields extended for miles in every direction. It looked as if we were on another planet and at any moment one of the volcanoes could erupt once again. While in the area, we visited the ruins at Stöng. I made the mistake of drinking what I thought was nice clean glacial water only to discover a sign later warning of high fluorine content. Sounds like nasty stuff but I appear unaffected. On the way back to the Ring Route we could see Hekla to the East although seeing it completely was a challenge through the cloud cover. On this 2 hour journey, I think we saw 2 other cars.
Once back at the Ring Route we headed West towards Hveragerði. The visit to the geothermal area was a complete waste of time. The area is surrounded by a chain link fence and is accessed through a restaurant / information center. A couple of mud pots and steam vents hardly make for interesting viewing. We spent about 15 minutes and left. However, the diversion was not a waste as the lava tube near Raufarhhólshellir did not disappoint. Its 1km long and goes right under Route 39 near the intersection with Route 42. Although the signs clearly warned of danger and the rocks on the roof looked like they could fall at any minute, we climbed inside with only a headlamp and a pocket light. A more safety conscience person might want at least a helmet. We figured if we died here at least it would be a unique way to die. Climbing down and inside was chore but no too difficult. You have to navigate lots of huge rocks being careful with each step. The only light provided is from the entrance and a couple of holes in the ceiling opened by collapses. We spent about 45 minutes inside and only got about half way through before turning around and heading out. Get in far enough and it is pitch black.
Now it was time to head back to Route 1 and start our journey counter-clockwise. We stopped next at Seljalandsfoss and Gljúrárfoss (waterfalls). The first is beautiful high falls you can walk behind. The second requires some light climbing up a hill and past a fence to see. 
Next up was another falls, Skógafoss. A nice wide falls that drops over 60m. We took the stairs up (a fairly steep 15 minute climb) to get a vantage point from above. It was quickly becoming apparent that waterfalls are everywhere in this country.Already 5:00PM we aren't at our destination yet and still want good glimpse our first glacier. We decide to take a detour on Route 221 towards Myrdalsajökull (glacier). This is a very rough road and is a lot longer journey than it looks. Starting to worry about damage to our rental car and the clock, we turn around after about 20 minutes but not before catching a glimpse of the glacier only a short distance away.
Back on the Ring Route again we decide to check into the Hótel Hófðabrekka just past Vík. Another nice but simple farm house. With little else to do, we decide to check out the black sand beach at Vík. Other than the pretty black sand, we aren't overly impressed. Much of the sunlight is blocked by the Reynísfjall ridge so pictures don't even look good. Then, it dawns on us that the lighting is probably perfect on the other side of the cliff so we hop in our car and head back West a bit to Route 218. Avoiding a small herd of cattle, we make our way to the black stone beach and the unbelievable stack of basalt columns. We get some great pictures of these columns, even managing to climb them a bit. Just around the corner from the columns we found a nice view of the sea stacks of Renisdrangur.Iceland Trip Report - Part 5 of 12
SUNDAY AUGUST 26th - The Golden Circle
Getting a full nights rest, we check-out of the hotel and waited on our ride from Hertz to get our rental car. They didn't show up as scheduled but a quick call got them out there in time for us to hit the road by 1PM as planned. After a quick stop at a grocery store, we left Reykjavík behind and headed for Þhingvellir. Once in the area, we hit a tourism office for some insight into where to go and what to see. We decided to walk around the Almannagjá rift area and walk the rift to Oxarafoss (waterfall). The area was very picturesque and the rift between the North American and European plates was impressive. I only wish they left the walking areas more natural instead of cutting and laying the stone trail. We spent a good 2 hours at this area.
Next up was Geysir and the surrounding geothermal field. Stokkur, which erupted about every 8 minutes did not disappoint. Kind of funny to watch all the tourists waiting to snap their pictures. After an initial test run I was able to get a nice sequence of photos on the next spout. I quickly realized how important it was to take pictures with people or nearby objects to give all the great Icelandic landscape shots some point of reference for scale. The rest of the geothermal area was nice and didn't take much time to explore. We spent a total of about 40 minutes at this site.
Our final stop for the day was Gullfoss (waterfalls). After hearing numerous stories about how they can be a bit underwhelming, I found the site quite beautiful. A lot of this had to do with timing. The late afternoon lighting was perfect against the waterfalls. A short walk down some stairs gave us a great view of the falls from many different angles. I captured several nice rainbows against the waterfalls.
Getting a full nights rest, we check-out of the hotel and waited on our ride from Hertz to get our rental car. They didn't show up as scheduled but a quick call got them out there in time for us to hit the road by 1PM as planned. After a quick stop at a grocery store, we left Reykjavík behind and headed for Þhingvellir. Once in the area, we hit a tourism office for some insight into where to go and what to see. We decided to walk around the Almannagjá rift area and walk the rift to Oxarafoss (waterfall). The area was very picturesque and the rift between the North American and European plates was impressive. I only wish they left the walking areas more natural instead of cutting and laying the stone trail. We spent a good 2 hours at this area.
Next up was Geysir and the surrounding geothermal field. Stokkur, which erupted about every 8 minutes did not disappoint. Kind of funny to watch all the tourists waiting to snap their pictures. After an initial test run I was able to get a nice sequence of photos on the next spout. I quickly realized how important it was to take pictures with people or nearby objects to give all the great Icelandic landscape shots some point of reference for scale. The rest of the geothermal area was nice and didn't take much time to explore. We spent a total of about 40 minutes at this site.
Our final stop for the day was Gullfoss (waterfalls). After hearing numerous stories about how they can be a bit underwhelming, I found the site quite beautiful. A lot of this had to do with timing. The late afternoon lighting was perfect against the waterfalls. A short walk down some stairs gave us a great view of the falls from many different angles. I captured several nice rainbows against the waterfalls.This night found as at the Hotel Hekla farmhouse. Decent accommodations where we could see the Hekla volcano in the distance when it wasn't covered by clouds. We decided to have the farmhouse dinner this night and paid about $60 for the privilege. The "fish stew" was really mostly potatoes mixed with cheese and fish. A vegetable and a beer rounded out the meal. From this point on we decided we'd skip most of the farmhouse dinners for cheaper alternatives. Here we also discovered the a "hot pot" is simply another name for hot tub / jacuzzi, not some natural hot spring. We got our first dose of really brisk air as the temperature dropped near freezing that night.
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